Old Skool

I've used diagrams like this for years.  It works well for me and it's something I will always do.  Really helps with crop rotations.  The main things I look at with crop rotation are families and feeding.  Families mean don't follow brassicas (broccoli, chard, kale, cabbage etc) with brassicas or nightshades (tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, etc) with nightshades.  Feeding means light takers (lettuce, leafy greens, onions, etc) should be rotated with heavy takers (pretty much everything big) and givers (peas/beans/legume cover crops).  I use clover as a cover crop and rotate the beds that get it in the winter.  This really helps with adding a "giver" to the rotation.  So, looking at the 2013 diagram, the beds labelled potatoes, onions, broccoli/napa, and the big 4 way bed labelled peas, lettuce, arugula, and chard did not have clover on it this winter; obviously, the cold frame did not either (where it says cukes on the lower left).  I'll rotate the locations of those beds next year and cover those beds with clover for the winter.  I also use buckwheat to cover beds empty late in the summer. It's a light taker, but makes up for it by breaking up the rotation of feeding, adding organic matter either when you dig it in or (what I usually do) add it to the compost pile, keeps weeds down by out-competing them, improves soil structure by breaking up via roots....I could go on and on.  I'm a BIG fan of both keeping garden diagrams and cover crops.